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Gauge...You Get What You Deserve When You Don't Swatch!

I know that I have talked about gauge before in the newsletter but I continue to get questions about it and find that it gives new-knitters and some not-so-new knitters a hard time. So here is more about gauge.

If you do not have the correct gauge, you will not have the correct size and correct amount of yarn. If you do not have correct gauge, you will not have the correct fabric for your pattern design.

You do not knit the pattern by needle size. The suggested needle size for the gauge is just that, suggested. You need to pick yarn that will give you the correct gauge and then use the needle that makes that gauge for you. For example, I can almost always count on using the suggested needle size and get the gauge, Pearl almost always has to go down 2 to 3 needle sizes to get that same gauge. We both always make a gauge swatch to make sure that we have the correct gauge before we start knitting and neither of us is right or wrong, there is no right or wrong, we are just different! Most gauges are given in so many stitches per 10cm, which is 4”. So you divide the gauge by 4 and have the stitches per inch, sometimes it is not 10cm so check.

½ stitch difference can make a great difference in size and amount of yarn used. Say you have a sweater that has 200 stitches for the body. At 5 stitches per inch that is 40”. At 5.5 stitches per inch that is 36.36”. And at 4.5 stitches per inch, that is 44.44”. There is over 4” difference between each gauge, a significant difference.

The other aspect of gauge is in the ‘hand’ of the fabric that we knit. I believe that it helps us to recognize that when we are knitting, we are creating fabric. The suggested gauge indicates the type of fabric that the yarn knits to. This can change if you want fabric with different qualities from the suggested norm for that yarn; then you must sample until you find the fabric that you want. Most people want to knit a pattern as pictured. You can not just change needle size and knit a yarn of a different gauge to fit the pattern and have a fabric that can be used. If you use too big a needle the fabric will be too loose to hold shape or have big holes between stitches. If you use a needle too small, the finished garment may be able to stand by itself in a corner or be used as a suit of armor. Neither very useful.

There are times when you do want the fabric to be different; then you need to swatch, and changing the needle size will change the fabric. But if you want to have the finished product to fit and have the qualities of the yarn in your pattern, you must pay attention to gauge and needle size.

And More On Gauge and Fabric.....

Gauge is not the only consideration when substituting yarns. It takes a lot more than just using another yarn of the same gauge to make a successful substitution. You need to look at the original yarn’s twist, fiber content, drape and then use your gut feeling! Many times it is possible to simply exchange a worsted-weight wool for another worsted weight-wool in a simple styled sweater. But if you are trying to knit a designer-styled pattern that uses a rayon/silk blend, you may not get the same look by simply using a wool of the same weight. Also if you are trying to substitute a mohair for a bulky –single ply wool, in a yoked sweater, even if they both knit at 3.5 stitches per inch, you may not get the look that you want. The mohair is knit at 3.5 because of its loft and it will give an airy look, it is not knit tight. The yoke sweater needs a firm fabric to give structure to the weight of the yarn below the yoke or it will pull out of shape. These are the sorts of things that you need to consider. What do you do then to make educated decisions when substituting? Ask people with more experience, their past mistakes may save you lots of time. Sample! Sample and then sample some more. Get a feel for the fabric that you are creating. You can take risks, but know ahead that you may be pulling out to start over. But do keep trying!

Remember, 'You Get What You Deserve When You Don't Swatch!